Saturday, June 30, 2012

LORD BYRON: FROM ABERDEEN TO ATHENS


 As a young boy up to the age of 8, I attended the splendid Aberdeen Grammar School in my home city. The front of the granite-clad school was dominated by a large statue of Lord Byron, the most famous alumnus of the school, who also spent childhood years there up to the age of 10, leaving in 1798. The statue was of a solemn robed personage and my young mind assumed he had been a highly respectable member of our society and an obvious role model.

Byron's statue at Aberdeen Grammar School

Of course, he was nothing of the kind. Lord George Gordon Byron (1788-1824) had an immense talent but he was a shaky pillar of society. So scandalous was his alleged private life that he left England never to return in 1816 and Westminster Abbey refused to bury him and did not allow a plaque in his honour until 1969. But in his time he was the most celebrated and admired poet in Europe.

Byron had a most unhappy childhood. His father “Mad Jack“ Byron died when Byron was 3 and his mother, Mad Jack’s second wife, had been squeezed by him of her Scottish fortune and they lived impecuniously. Lochnagar, Deeside and the Grampians made a lasting impression on the young boy but he had been born with a club right foot which caused him pain all his life, made worse by his unstable mother’s over-zealous care alternating with bouts of cruel ridicule of the sensitive child’s handicap. In 1798, his great-uncle died and George succeeded aged 10 to the title of Lord Byron and the heavily mortgaged properties of Newstead Abbey and Rochdale. He moved to England but initially lived with his mother in rural Southwell, quite near to Newstead which had been let out. They were penurious aristocrats.

After a spell at school in Dulwich he went to prestigious Harrow. He was a great success, making friends easily. His bi-sexual nature flourished as he had numerous affairs with both sexes. He started to write poetry and when he moved on to Trinity College, Cambridge in 1806, he continued his rather profligate life-style, ran up large debts, read much but neglected his studies. His youthful first volume of poetry was harshly criticised by Brougham in The Edinburgh Review and Byron’s rebuttal was his witty satire English Bards and Scotch Reviewers in 1809.

In that year he embarked on a Grand Tour with his Whig political friend John Hobhouse. As the Napoleonic Wars closed off much of Europe to Englishmen they travelled instead to England’s allies, Portugal and Spain and to the Balkans, then remote and under Ottoman control. Byron at that time was physically very attractive. Despite his club foot he was an excellent swimmer and horseman and had even played cricket for Harrow against Eton.

Byron, the handsome Poet

Byron loved the lively cities of Spain but was enchanted by the Balkans, by the exotic court of Ali Pasha in Ioannina and most of all by the tiny “village” of Athens where he cavorted sensually among the hovel-inhabiting population of about one thousand amid the splendid ruins of the Ancient World. In the nonchalant fashion of the time he even carved his name on the bottom of a capital at the lovely Temple of Poseidon at Sunion. He also visited Smyrna and like Leander swam across the Hellespont.  His muse was inspired and on his return he wrote the first 2 cantos of Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, the largely autobiographical narrative poem, where the protagonist complains of the follies of the world and longs for a life of more excitement and profundity; the restless “Byronic” hero was born.

Byron in Albanian costume

 On the publication of the first parts of Childe Harold in their Spenserian stanzas in 1812, Byron remarked “I awoke famous”. For the next 3 years he was lionised by English society and the Whig establishment. He was pursued by many women, obsessively by Lady Caroline Lamb, who immortally described her Byron as “mad, bad and dangerous to know”. He wrote much poetry with a fashionably Eastern flavour. The political side of Byron was revealed by his eloquent protest in the Lords in 1812 against the repressive policies towards organised labour practised by the Tory government:

You call these men a mob….are we aware of our obligations to a mob? It is the mob that labour in your fields and serve in your houses, that man your Navy and recruit your Army that has enabled you to defy the world and can defy you also when neglect and calamity have driven them to despair.

In January 1815 Byron married Annabella Milbanke, a talented mathematician – “the princess of parallelograms” he called her. The marriage was a disaster, they quarrelled, Byron took to drink and in 1816 they separated. Annabella only claimed he had gone mad, but widely believed stories of Byron’s fornication, incest (with his half sister Augusta) and sodomy circulated: whatever their truth Byron left England in 1816, never to return.

He first lived in Switzerland and was much influenced by the beauty of the Alps and then made a home in Venice where his dissolute behaviour was notorious. Oddly, he became interested in the Armenian religious community there, learned its language and was involved in producing grammars and a dictionary. He wrote more fine cantos of Childe Harold and composed the much-praised The Prisoner of Chillon and the dramatic poem Manfred among others.

 He was building a European reputation, was admired by Goethe, and in 1818 embarked on his masterpiece, the witty and wide-ranging Don Juan. The piece turns the Don Juan legend on its head and has the Don as the victim of voracious women. There are characteristic Byronic moments:

But sweeter still than this, than these, than all,
     Is first and passionate love—it stands alone,
Like Adam's recollection of his fall;
     The tree of knowledge has been pluck'd—all's known—
And life yields nothing further to recall
     Worthy of this ambrosial sin, so shown,
No doubt in fable, as the unforgiven
Fire which Prometheus filch'd for us from heaven
.

But Byron’s life was about to take a dramatic turn, presaged in Don Juan:

The mountains look on Marathon –
And Marathon looks on the sea;
And musing there an hour alone.
I dream’d that Greece might still be free.

In 1823 he accepted an offer to become the representative in Greece of the London Philhellenes, Greek nationalists having risen against Ottoman rule in 1821. He threw himself into the cause and tried to organise the ever-exasperating Greeks. He spent £4,000 of his own money (about £200,000 today) in refitting the Greek fleet to attack the Turks.

Byron at Missolonghi

Before he could do anything significant he contracted a malarial fever from the nearby swamps and died in Missolonghi on 19 April 1824. His death was received as a catastrophe throughout Europe but his sacrifice hugely boosted the Greek cause, leading to the decisive naval engagement at Navarino Bay in 1827, when a combined British, French and Russian fleet destroyed the Turkish one, and independence came in 1830.
Many years of Greek Anglophilia followed and even today many Greeks are named Vyron (pronounced “Veeron”) in honour of their national hero. A statue in Central Athens has a symbolic Greece proffering a laurel crown to Byron.


Byron Statue in Athens

So my piece starts and ends with two statues. Byron is best known in England for his shorter love poetry like So, we’ll go no more a-roving or She walks in Beauty although the greater achievements of Childe Harold and Don Juan are fully acknowledged. As I sit in my summer house in Samos – Fill high the cup with Samian wine – I raise a glass in salute.

 What a Life, What a Spirit, What a Genius!

SMD
29.06.2012   

 Text Copyright Sidney Donald 2012

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

GREECE CAUSES A TREMOR



I was expecting an earthquake followed by a tsunami but in the event the 17 June Greek election only made the ground move a fraction and there is no sign yet of any dam breaking. The anti bail-out Syriza, led by vigorous Alexis Tsipras, greatly increased its 6 May poll from 16.8% to 26.9% but was pipped at the post by conservative New Democracy with 29.7%. New Democracy won 79 seats as against Syriza’s 71 but under the Greek system gets a bonus of 50 seats to 129 as the highest polling party. It looks as if New Democracy will get active or maybe only tacit coalition support from PASOK (33 seats) and Democratic Left (17 seats) to give it a working majority with 179 seats in the 300-seat parliament.

Seats in May 2012 and June 2012 elections

The mood in Athens is rather flat – the return of the same old incompetent and corrupt gang of ND and PASOK is hardly inspiring. People in the shops shrug their shoulders and say Syriza will get there next time, but who knows? There was certainly a huge “Stop Tsipras” campaign in the Greek media, from the political and business elite, egged on improperly by Brussels and Berlin. Many ordinary Greeks too were fearful of a Syriza victory: typically a neighbour voted New Democracy even though her pension had already been cut 30% - she feared losing it completely. If ever FDR’s dictum that “you have nothing to fear but fear itself” applied, it was to the wavering voters of Greece on 17 June.

Contradictions still abound. The Greeks say they want to stay in the Euro. They desperately need the large bail-out subsidies grudgingly released in dribs and drabs by the EU/ECB/ IMF “Troika” yet fight against the pre-conditions. The tax measures have been imposed but privatisations are moribund. No action has been taken on reducing the minimum wage down to Spanish levels (the Left and the unions, poor dears, would be offended). Worst of all, the government payroll has not been cut by even one pen-pusher. There are 760,000 state employees. Greece promised to fire 15,000 in 2012 (a fleabite) and a total of 150,000 by 2015 (a substantial enough number but hardly likely to be missed in the dysfunctional Greek bureaucracy). Anyhow, precisely nothing has been done – with PASOK, Syriza and the Left rambling on about “lines in the sand”. A reality check has long been urgently required. 

Leaders of the Old Gang, Antonis Samaras and Evangelos Venizelos

Syriza says it will operate as a vigorous and challenging Opposition, although how loyal that opposition will be is an open question – there will be plenty opportunities for mischief-making and the Greeks have liked a good punch-up since the Nika Riots of AD 532. The New Democracy leader Antonis Samaras has had a career thus far distinguished only by turning his coat and changing his mind – once an opponent of the bail-out, now a supporter. His mettle will be sharply tested in the coming months – can he get better terms from the Troika or even a soft landing if Grexit is inevitable? Proceedings in the normally somnolent Greek parliament may turn loud and nasty as the new boys on the block are 18 members from unsavoury neo-Nazi Golden Dawn, unlikely to abide by any code of good manners.

Although the Greek election caused no more than a tremor, it certainly concentrated minds in many chancelleries. Is unremitting austerity the only proper medicine for over-indebted states? Can Eurozone countries in surplus recycle automatically some of this surplus to those chronically in deficit?  All the rhetoric from Berlin and Brussels firmly maintains that exit from the Euro by Greece or anybody else is an impossibility – “Ever closer Union” is the catchphrase. Yet every respectable economist has been saying for months that Greece, at least, must leave the Euro to survive at all. The Eurozone countries are too disparate to form a coherent currency bloc – even within Germany 40 experts have just written to Mrs Merkel advocating a Northern Euro (the Thaler) for Germany, the Netherlands and other like-minded states leaving the existing Euro to readjust for the benefit of Southern Europe.

For the sake of the world economy, Germany above all has to address these questions with real thought and argue its case with compelling conviction. In Greece the populist vision of Mrs Merkel has her as a Queen Bee sucking in the life-blood of her drones in Greece and elsewhere. The truth is more complex and movement on these great issues of the day is urgent.


SMD 20.06.12 

 Text Copyright Sidney Donald 2012

Sunday, June 10, 2012

OLDIES AND THE NEW TECHNOLOGY



There was really never any doubt about it in the long term and despite an admittedly rather slow early learning curve, it can plausibly be claimed that the Older Generation has come to terms with the New Technology. By “the Older Generation” I mean anybody over 60 and for the “New Technology” read personal computers, internet communication, mobile phones and all the attendant gewgaws which make our simple lives so baffling and expensive.

By saying that we Oldies had come to terms with these novelties, I choose my words carefully. We do not much love or embrace the New Technology. We observe goggle-eyed the manifold conveniences it brings, have a vague working knowledge of how it basically works but we sigh nostalgically for earlier and easier times.

Our own grandparents took a frivolous view of high tech progress. Typical was their amusement at the fantastic contraptions drawn by Heath Robinson in the 1930s like the head-wart remover, steam-driven and accomplishing its outlandish purpose via a complex system of weights and pulleys. The Second War forced us to take technology seriously and many great advances flowed through. Yet for our parents and in our own youth there were some relatively fixed points. To communicate privately we used pen, ink and paper to write and post eloquent or chatty letters at red pillar-boxes and we used a fixed line telephone. These objects are rapidly becoming antiquarian curiosities and to preserve their memory I attach photographs.

Pen, Ink and Paper
                                               
A Rotary Dial Telephone


The world of business spawned a multitude of gadgets and machines. Colossally expensive mainframe computers were the province of the largest companies but this was a world away from the modest commercial sector, whose technology amounted to possession of a typewriter and various mechanical calculating machines.

A Typewriter
A Curta Calculator
                                  

My boss in my early banking days was extremely proud of his Curta Calculator, resembling a pepper-mill. You aligned numbers on slides round the machine drum, cranked once for addition, pushing forward and cranking for subtraction and other carriage-shifting for multiplication and division. It was effective, if slightly comical, German in origin and derived from pin-wheel machines first seen in the 18th century.

By the 1980s all these things were obsolescent. Computers downsized, micro-processors and miniature chips made them commercially commonplace. In time the dam broke completely, standards and protocols were established, incompatibilities overcome, the Internet was born, Broadband proliferated and the World-Wide-Web allowed anyone to communicate anywhere. The pace of change has been dizzying and continues unabated.

In 1993, aged 51, I left the protective womb of my banking employer, teeming with secretaries and young “techies” and I had to cope with this Revolution myself. First I had to learn to type and, a late developer, I soon bought my first personal computer. Thank goodness I had three keenly computer-literate sons as without their generous help I would have been totally lost. Over the years I have made hundreds of anguished pleas to them or disturbed them with late night phone-calls whenever I got stuck – usually quickly resolved by a single forgotten key-stroke. Now and then there have been slightly uncharitable mutterings about my incipient Alzheimer’s or my moronic anxieties – probably all Oldies suffer such occasional barbs. An Oldie friend tells me his supportive children refer to him as a “techno twit”, probably typically enough, if a tad unkind.

There remains a generational gap between the Oldies and the rest of the cyber-space population. Some of it is just down to age; we boring Oldies are not much interested in pop music blaring from unexpected sources or in noisy games more suited to an amusement arcade than a family sitting-room. It is just a matter of taste as I admit to playing Mozart on our I-Pod (wearing ear-phones) and I will often have a gentle round of golf on our Nintendo Wii with my lovely wife.

A greater divide is the vexed matter of privacy. I do not want to be on permanent call and am quite happy to turn off my PC or mobile phone. Most matters can wait the dawn of a new day, and we Oldies surely have plenty of time on our hands. I cannot understand the urge to reveal all on Facebook. By all means exchange social chit-chat and opinions but some Facebook users are clearly obsessional and exhibitionist. I can just about understand someone wanting to share an experience like visiting Chichen Itza or walking on the Great Wall of China but news that they are devouring a burger at the Walsall branch of MacDonald’s is banality in spades. I am also chary about revealing my whereabouts in case Sony send up an unmanned drone to zap my Wi-Fi.

The all-powerful Smartphone

It is also apparent that sitting for hours in front of a TV monitor is deeply unsociable, a solitary vice practised by a vast monkish Order, the TechnoTrappists. Caught up in one’s own interests, endlessly seeking information, forever reading or writing emails means you are not sharing your life with your partner or your family. This is surely no way to live and yet it is a very common phenomenon. Now that the focus seems to be shifting from the laptop to the all-powerful Smartphone, there is no sadder sight than to see people constantly hunched over a phone texting their contacts, self-absorbed and alienated. I say regulate and ration use of these machines and break the shackles of their enchantment. Technology is our slave and we are its master, not the other way round. Oldie or youngster, stay always connected with the real world, converse, think, share, laugh, dream and dare – in short, Get a Life!

SMD
10/06/2012

Copyright Sidney Donald 2012