Thursday, September 28, 2017

A GRATEFUL FAREWELL TO SAMOS


In 1996 my wife Betty’s Aunt Dina had offered her a gift of the family ancestral house in Karlovasi, Samos, long unoccupied and neglected. Betty went on a recce mission, decided it was worth developing, demolished the old tumble-down place and we erected together by 1998 a marble-floored modern summer-house with all mod.cons. It has 2 bedrooms including a shower and Jacuzzi, a spacious living room and a sunny 2nd floor veranda with panoramic views of the Aegean and of the surrounding hills. It also has an adjoining court-yard, until recently packed with plants and local fruits. After 19 years of rather spasmodic occupation, which has always stimulated and refreshed us, we have decided to let it out to the students who are such a lively presence here from the University of the Aegean, and to retreat to our cherished homes in peaceful Folkestone and in sun-kissed Athens.  


The years are taking their toll. At age 75, we are less able to cope with the 34 steps from top to bottom and the 34 back up again. The Samos winters are raw and damp and maintenance costs swallow up much cash. Property taxes, once unknown, are now a major prop in the hard-pressed Greek government’s fiscal armoury. Yet we are reluctant leavers, as Samos is unusually lovely, the bulk of the locals are very friendly and any island which happily reared Pythagoras is going to take some beating!

Potami Bay, Karlovasi, Samos with Hippy's in the background

Of course I admit to wearing rose-coloured spectacles. Many other Greek islands no doubt have better beaches, better hotels and better eateries. Samos has its fair share of rogues and vagabonds and noisy motor-bikers are a trial. But we have felt welcome here and it is a wrench to leave. We are giving up our house but we will still have to manage our properties (we have the house and 3 rented flats here) and at least an annual visit as landlords will be required of us or of one of our sons. We’re no awa tae bide awa, as the Scots song has it, at least until the Greek housing market recovers sufficiently to make property sales again feasible. Yet somehow it will never be the same for us again.


Today is the landmark day we hand over the keys to our new tenant, an 18 year old girl and new student with prosperous parents from Halkidiki, Northern Greece. She is a lucky girl as we have, with family help, refurbished the house in the modern idiom and the place looks a dream.


We can only say many fond Thank-yous. To the Samos municipality, for keeping the island beautiful when Greece was prostrate. To the citizens of Samos, for uncomplainingly welcoming penniless refugees from the benighted Middle East and the sub-Continent. To our friends and neighbours – gallant Eftechia, now crippled, who looked after our house in earlier years and multi-talented Theofilaktos, the creator of our courtyard garden and invaluable helper, whose life and health collapsed months ago but is now recovering steadily in the North. Thanks go to those who have helped with their skills in so many ways around the house, Michaelis, Stamatis, Nectarios, Dimitri, George, Manolis and Stelios.

 Thanks too to Apostoli, presiding genius at our favourite Hippy’s and his right-hand man Yarmo, so attentive and welcoming, as has been the owner, Smarro. Genial Dimitri has welcomed us for years at his consistently excellent tree-shaded Dionysos. Tassos has cooked like an angel at Kosmos on the shingle beach at lovely Avlaki and Giannis has kindly dispensed tasty honest taverna fare and great local wine at the Megalo Kafeneon.


We could not forget our friends Effi, Marigo, Katerina, Filio and Costas. A huge final thank you to our architect and long-term friend Kiki, who has introduced us to many people and places, dynamically sorted out problems and cheerfully brought Parisian sophistication to the island. She has been our rock.


So we say Goodbye and Thank you to Samos – bless you for all the pleasures you have brought; you will always have a very special corner in our hearts.


SMD
28.09.2017

Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2017

Thursday, September 14, 2017

BRUSHING UP MY SHAKESPEARE



It is said that one of the cultural calamities of the Ancient World was the destruction by fire of the great Library of Alexandria. Some blame Julius Caesar, others the emperor Aurelian, while guilt is also apportioned to the Theodosian Decrees (which outlawed paganism) and later the Muslim conquest of Egypt. Since these periods stretch from 48 BC to 642 AD, there must have been several different fires, but in any event priceless and unique papyri were lost for ever and who knows what philosophy, history or poetry we would have savoured had they survived.

The Destruction of the Library in Alexandria

A neglected corner of the tumultuous City of London is the site of St Mary Aldermanbury, a medieval and then a Wren church blitzed in 1940.  Two parishioners of the medieval church were John Heminge and Henry Condell, London actors and editors who achieved immortality by producing the First Folio in 1623, containing 36 of Shakespeare’s plays. The great man had died in 1616 and only 18 of his plays had ever been published, in quarto format, a flimsy and perishable medium. The First Folio saw the publication, and in a robust format, of all the Bard’s plays including for the first time The Tempest, As You like It, Twelfth Night, Coriolanus, Macbeth, Julius Caesar and Antony and Cleopatra. So Jacobean England was spared the fate meted out to the Alexandrian Library and we are able to enjoy Shakespeare in all his glory.


William Shakespeare (1564-1616)

Maybe the Bard can help me face today’s world:


There is a tide in the affairs of men.
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune;


I have taken the big decision to rent out our summer home on the lovely island of Samos:


The isle is full of noises,
Sounds, and sweet airs that give delight and hurt not.
Sometimes a thousand twangling instruments
Will hum about mine ears, and sometime voices
That, if I then had waked after long sleep,
Will make me sleep again.


Certainly Samos is full of noises (unsilenced motor cycles the main culprit), but it is beautiful, not unlike another famous island:  


This precious stone set in the silver sea, 


My eldest son visited us and unexpectedly announced his engagement to a Russian lady. Whatever my reservations,


Let me not to the marriage of true minds
Admit impediments.


On the contrary,


And when Love speaks, the voice of all the gods
Makes heaven drowsy with the harmony.


I can only proffer the classic sage advice;


This above all: to thine ownself be true,
And it must follow, as the night the day,
Thou canst not then be false to any man.


Leaving Samos will be a wrench:


Parting is such sweet sorrow.


Soon I will return to tempest-tossed Britain fighting hard for Brexit:


Then imitate the action of the tiger;
Stiffen the sinews, summon up the blood


That great battle won, I will revert to my doddery decrepitude


The sixth age shifts
Into the lean and slippered pantaloon,
With spectacles on nose and pouch on side;
His youthful hose, well saved, a world too wide
For his shrunk shank, and his big manly voice,
Turning again toward childish treble, pipes
And whistles in his sound.


Shakespeare’s range of insight and emotion far surpassed my halting narrative – he has wit and wisdom for every man.


How beauteous mankind is! O brave new world,
That has such people in ’t!


 I revert finally to the tidy garden site of St Mary Aldermanbury – the church itself was removed stone by stone to the campus of Westminster College, Fulton, Missouri, in an imaginative project in the 1960s but that is another story. The garden site still contains a monument to Heminge and Condell. Never was an honour so well earned.


The Monument to Heminge and Condell

 
SMD
14.09.17

Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2017