HARD CHEESE

It would probably come as no great surprise were I to tell you that Greeks are the largest per capita consumers in the world of Eurozone rescue funds, political bribes or inducements in brown envelopes, but instead I pass on the astonishing intelligence that the Greeks eat more cheese per head than any other nation. At an annual rate of 31.1 kg per year, they easily eclipse the French (26.1) or the Germans (22.6), while the USA (14.8) and Britain (10.9) are sad also-rans. This is a rare Greek triumph, bringing on a loud and pungent victory belch from the much-put-upon Hellenes.

The perennially high relative cost of meat in Greece, and yet the traditional keeping and herding of sheep and goats, lies behind the Greek enthusiasm for health-giving cheese. About 75% of Greek consumption is of the ubiquitous Feta, the hard, white and often salty cheese, usually made with sheepmilk, which comes in pressed big blocks, kept in brine and then sliced. Feta is delicious on its own with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of oregano or crumbled into a fresh country salad. It makes a splendid appetiser as you sip your ouzo, but it is also widely used in Greek cooking, in tasty cheese and spinach pies, in fried Saganaki cheese dishes and in pizzas of all kinds. There are other fine Greek cheeses – simple and delicate Anthotiros and Manouri (my personal favourites), hearty Kasseri, many varieties of excellent Graviera and the rather sharp-tasting Kefalotiri. The range is enticing.

However in the Pantheon of cheese producers, pride of place must go to the French. De Gaulle’s oft-misquoted bon mot “How can one govern a country producing 246 varieties of cheese?” sets the scene. Wonderful quality of cow, ewe and goat milk, traditional skills passed down from peasant or monk, regional pride in their distinctive produce, all combine to make France the undisputed Grand Fromage. One just has to mention a few - Brie, Camembert, Chevre, Roquefort, Boursin, Livarot, Pont l’Eveque or Munster to appreciate that one is among the unrivalled aristocrats of cheese. A plate of Camembert and an accompanying ballon of Burgundy epitomise French civilisation, (forget about Voltaire and Descartes), even if the whiff of Munster can make your hair curl within 20 yards.

French cheese board

The Italians are no slouches at cheese-making either. The world loves Gorgonzola, Bel Paese and, maybe most of all, water-buffalo-sourced Mozzarella and cooking lasagne or pizza would be impossible without Parmesan and Ricotta. The Germans characteristically produce cheese on an industrial scale but some of their cheeses are superb - Blue Brie, Tilsit, Allgau Emmantaler and Limburger (Oh God, what a pong!) and are much treasured. Medals are also due to Swiss Gruyere and to their aromatic fondues and Dutch rounds of Gouda and Edam. The cheese markets of Northern Europe are one of the glories of the continent.

I have not yet mentioned Britain. Its production and consumption put it at best at mid-table but I humbly contend that British cheeses are wonderful. Britain’s strong suit is blue cheese – creamy and delicious Stilton, napkin-wrapped and spoon-dug, or Buxton Blue. Then there is renowned Cheddar of varying strengths, Gloucester, Red Leicester or crumbly Cheshire. The Welsh contribute fine Caerphilly and their famous Rarebit and the Scots chip in with Orkney or oatmeal-covered Caboc. London is cosmopolitan and British cheeses are there among those of the rest of the world in the sense-dizzying Food Hall at Harrods or at the venerable and pungent Paxton and Whitfield emporium in Jermyn Street in the opulent West End.

The US is the largest manufacturer of cheese in the world, though mainly for domestic consumption. Apparently some fine cheeses are produced, but certainly in the UK we mainly see banal Philadelphia Cheese Spread and the rubbery-looking and cardboard-tasting processed slices by Kraft – neither objects to detain the gourmet. Australia and New Zealand, with their extensive dairy industries also produce decent cheeses, much of it exported, usually based on versions of Cheddar.

Cheese eating is not a global habit. In China, Japan and East Asia generally, cheese is not much eaten. The same is true of sub-Saharan Africa. In part this is due to the imperfectly understood condition known as lactose intolerance. Many people globally seem to have a genetic difficulty digesting milk itself and also milk products like cheese. A further complication arises from the fact that rennet used in cheese-making normally derives from calf’s stomach and observant Jews and Muslims will not eat anything neither kosher nor halal. While there is vegetarian rennet, cheese eating is not widespread in the Middle East. Some cheese is used in the Indian sub-continent, including Nepal’s yak (yuk!) cheese Chhurpi and Bhutan’s national dish, Ema Datsi, is made from yak or mare’s milk cheese and red peppers, which sounds rather a gastronomic challenge.

With due respect to the elegant French and lively Greeks, I take my leave with a nourishing English feast of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, followed by a refreshing syllabub and brought to a lingering climax with biscuits and mature Stilton cheese, lubricated by a generous glass or two of fine Port. Our sad old world will look much better after substantial and cheesy sustenance of this glorious kind.

SMD

25.01.2012

Text Copyright Sidney Donald 2012.