Monday, November 12, 2012

CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL AND GOODWOOD: The Essence of England (14)




[This is the fourteenth of a series of articles giving a brief description of each of the 26 ancient Anglican cathedrals coupled with a sketch of a person, activity or
institution connected to the area]

Chichester Cathedral stands in the middle of the quintessentially English middle-class City of Chichester in West Sussex. Chichester is typical of the highly prosperous South-East of England, a rich administrative location with a first-class summer Festival Theatre bringing in and sending out West End productions; many maintain second homes there to enjoy the nearby sailing and leisure opportunities.

Chichester Cathedral
Chichester, (the suffix “–chester” indicating a Roman Camp from the Latin “castra”), possesses many Roman relics. After early building disasters, the Cathedral we now see was consecrated in 1199.

The Nave at Chichester
 The Cathedral has many fine features but the whole is in my view less than the sum of its parts. I usually leave Chichester somehow disappointed that I have not enjoyed it more – the mischief lies in its disparate constituents creating a lack of artistic unity.

The Nave and Choir are mainly Norman, the fine stone ribbed vault is Early English and the Lady Chapel in the East End is in the Decorated style. Subsidence problems plagued the two West towers, which I think rather clumsy and ugly, as is the separate bell tower. The dominant spire was built in the Early English style in the late 14th century but it needed many repairs and finally collapsed in 1861, to be faithfully rebuilt by George Gilbert Scott. The Cloisters are Perpendicular.

Much 20th century modern art within strikes a jarring note to my eye including a large altar tapestry by John Piper and a vivid window by Marc Chagall; both are notable works of art in their way but are not in sympathy with the cathedral.

The Piper Tapestries
The Chagall window


                                 
Chichester Cathedral is thus far from perfect, but it has much of beauty to recommend it and cherish. Its famed Bishop, George Bell (1883- 1958) was an ecumenical supporter of the anti-Nazi German Confessing Church; he knew and tried to help its leaders Dietrich Bonhoeffer and Martin Niemoller. Bell aroused much controversy by condemning “area bombing” in WW2: however muddle-headed he might have been, Bell was a man of courage and principle.

---------------------------------------

Only a short distance from Chichester is Goodwood, a stately home, a wonderful race-course and a venue for a variety of sporting events. The House, much modelled by Wyatt, is the seat of the Duke of Richmond and Gordon, also Duke of Lennox, who holds an unrivalled three dukedoms and who owns the Estate.

Goodwood House

The great attraction is the Racecourse, often described as the most beautiful in England, with its situation overlooking the glorious South Downs. The most prestigious of the several meetings during the year is the July “Glorious Goodwood” meeting. I had the good fortune to be a non-executive director of a prosperous company, which had a box at Goodwood, and my lovely wife and I were invited to join colleagues and business guests for about 8 years in a row. It was always a memorable occasion – I wore the traditional linen suit and Panama hat and my wife was in a charming summer confection. The sun always seemed to shine, the champagne bubbled and quite often our selected horses would win us a pound or two.

The Pleasures of Goodwood
 Less snooty than Ascot, Goodwood offers a perfect day at the races. In 2012 it saw the swansong of wonder-horse Frankel who won the Sussex Stakes for the second time, soon to retire unbeaten after 14 victories. The highest rated horse in the world, Frankel is said to be worth £100m at stud.

Frankel wins again at Goodwood
 For the motor-heads among you, Goodwood has for the last 20 years offered The Festival of Speed, a gathering of famous rally and racing cars and famous drivers. The event takes place in front of the House and recalls the celebrated racing track that operated there from 1946 – 68 and involves races and a hill-climb. Many spectacular vintage vehicles are also shown.

A McLaren - Mercedes
A royal Rolls-Royce










Not the least reason to treasure Goodwood is its part in introducing the Pekinese dog to England. The Peke was the closely guarded palace dog of the Chinese Emperor and the breed had thrived in China for 2,000 years.

In one of the only-too-common European incursions into China in 1860, the British and French looted the Summer Palace in Peking and despite brave defence, managed to take away 5 Pekes. One was given to Queen Victoria, who loved it and the other four given by Admiral Lord Hay to his cousin, the Duke of Richmond. Family member Lady Blanche Gordon-Lennox bred the feisty dogs and we now have the Goodwood line of Pekes. The Pekinese are brave, loyal and the best of companions. My family had one for 12 years, a splendid little chap called Kassim. For him alone, I say many thanks to Goodwood!

A beautiful pedigree Pekinese

SMD
12.11.12

Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2012



No comments:

Post a Comment