I hope it is not considered too irresponsible, while summer
still warms the cockles, to escape for a while from the burdens of the world
and enjoy some simple pleasures. I wish temporarily to ignore my own worries
(some rude locals, a defaulting tenant, financial turmoil and the daily influx
of refugees) and instead share with you a sociable week or so in balmy Samos. I
am sure many of you will also have been doing stimulating holiday things,
appropriately without a trace of guilt.
Two birthdays were celebrated, one a landmark birthday for
genial and ever-welcoming Apostoli, manager of Hippy’s, the delightful restaurant and busy bar beside the Potami
beach in Karlovasi. That evening the bar
was adorned with soft lighting, candles and flambeaux, delicious home-made taramosalata and pitta bread were first proffered, followed by pork souvlakis from the barbecue, washed down
by the fragrant Roya locally blended
white wine. An accordionist and a guitarist sang and played evocative old
favourites. The crowd was cosmopolitan and well-heeled, all-in-all a most
civilised occasion.
 |
| Hippy's garden restaurant and beach-bar |
The second birthday was a more private affair, that of our
friend and neighbour Theofilaktos. He would normally do a BBQ with his
Christina but the night was hot and we decided just to eat together with
another couple of friends and we had souvlakis
and gyro delivered. Lots of chat and
joking finishing off with a splendidly rich chocolate cake and candles to blow
out. We were sitting in our painted courtyard surrounded by the aromatic plants
and blooms of which Theofilaktos is the master. He was moved that he was so
appreciated and honoured.
 |
| Birthday Boy Theofilaktos |
My lovely wife Betty received a great boost when some
outside spotlights were fitted enhancing the appearance of the house at night;
more importantly for 17 years the fine view from our second floor veranda of
the sea, the mountains and the cathedral has been marred by an obtrusive large
water tank on a neighbour’s roof. She managed to substitute a new, low-slung
tank, gifted by our architect friend Kiki, and a crane removed the old
excrescence. A blissful moment – our view to the sea is now unimpeded and we
are able easily to see the large church of the Panagia Theotokos at Meseo, floodlit at night.
Culture is not entirely neglected as last Thursday we took
the high and winding mountain road to the South of the island and The Heraion – the archaeological site of
the Temple of Hera. Much excavated and documented, the glory of the site would
have been the vast temple erected in the 6th century BC by the
Samian tyrant Polycrates and the 6 km Sacred Way, packed with statues. Not much
is left as temples were built upon temples and only outlines survive. A huge Kouros in the Museum at Vathi gives a
flavour of the ancient richness.
 |
| To Kyma restaurant, Ireon |
In the heat we adjourned to the nearby village of Ireon and
discovered a lovely restaurant, To Kyma
(The Wave,) perched over the sea where we ate alfresco delicious stuffed
peppers, fried calamari (squid) and tsipoura (sea bream) and were warmly
welcomed by chef Giannis and family owner Panagiotis. Even better, Betty espied
some vibrant orange directors’ chairs in the bar, which were just right for our
painted courtyard, and bought 4 for a song. She was thrilled as we drove our
packed Smart home. We returned on Sunday with Theofilaktos and Christina, swam
happily in the warm Aegean, ate well again and bought another 2 chairs!
As a token of thanks for her gift of a new water tank, we
invited Kiki to the charming mountain village of Manolates, Kiki driving us up
the precipitous road in her open Wrangler, the perfect vehicle for Samos. We
dined at the Three Alphas, an old
favourite of hers, where the marinated grilled mushrooms and toothsome mousses
and cakes were a particular joy. Manolates has commanding views over the nearby
forests of plane-trees and the sea beyond and has a relaxing ambiance.
We made good use of our cool high veranda, its view much
improved, as a venue for sipping ouzo and
nibbling bits and pieces, first with an Anglo-Greek couple we like and another
night with our neighbours with meatballs an optional extra. How pleasant it is
on a warm night to chat quietly and maybe listen to some music too in the
painted courtyard.
This gives you a glimpse of our Aegean pleasures, a rustic Idyll
rather than a riotous Bacchanal. I walked to the Archangels’ Chapel through the
vineyards, now being harvested – not a great crop, a farmer friend told me,
thanks to a blight and too much rain in the winter. The olives, collected from
November or so, are crying out for rain – we have really seen none since May. I
still find time to write and polish my effusions, to swim in the local hotel
pool nearby and to snatch a siesta after all these agreeable exertions!
Links:
www.tripadvisor.co.uk › ... › Samos › Ireon ›
Ireon Restaurants
www.greekislandtraveler.com/ManolatesSamos.html
SMD
27.08.15
Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2015
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