The distinguished architectural writer Alec Clifton-Taylor
was a particular authority on the materials used in Britain’s buildings and
certainly Britain is made more beautiful by the use of some lovely native
stone. English cathedrals, parish churches and some towns are often
particularly blessed and while the modern world is much dominated by brick and
concrete, stone remains the finest of materials, the material which lasts
centuries and you cherish in “the deep heart’s core”.
I was raised in Aberdeen and had the good fortune to live my
youth in a majestic Victorian house in Rubislaw Den South, one of the finest
city streets. The houses there and in much of the city were built of the famous
grey, sparkling Granite extracted
from Rubislaw Quarry nearby – every day one heard the stone- blasting in the
deep quarry, becoming exhausted and closed since 1971. I loved the granite and
our house sported two fine cylindrical columns framing the entrance and in the
1960s I used daily to touch the columns and gave thanks for the privilege of
living in such splendour.
Rubislaw Den South houses |
Aberdeen, the Granite City |
There was a great Victorian vogue for Aberdeen Granite on
tombstones (not always in sympathy with earlier tombs) but it is still used as
an expensive building material often as a solid facing for banks, subtly
concealing the bankers’ spines of jelly and feet of clay!
Edinburgh’s native stone is a variety of hard Sandstone, most famously from the
Craigleith quarries, which adorns much of the New Town and was exhausted by
1895. Register House and Charlotte Square are clad in this stone and architect
Robert Adam was so fond of this elegant material he transported it to London
for Chandos House, Queen Anne Street in 1771.
Register House, Edinburgh in Craigleith stone |
Chandos House, London |
London has no local building stone and has imported stone
for centuries. Kentish Ragstone, a
rough, durable limestone, is plentiful and was much used in medieval Westminster
Abbey and in many other churches and to good effect in Kent itself for the
Archbishop’s Palace at Maidstone.
Archbishop's Palace, Maidstone in Kentish Ragstone |
Much the most famous stone to be imported into London was Portland Stone, from the Jurassic
Portland Island in Dorset. Christopher Wren moved tons of this stone to London
by barge and gave us St Paul’s Cathedral among many others. The Cenotaph
erected by Lutyens in 1919 in Whitehall is also in gravely respectful Portland
Stone.
St Paul's Cathedral in Portland Stone |
The Cenotaph too |
Perhaps the finest building to be erected in England in the
20thcentury was the Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool, designed by
Giles Gilbert Scott in 1903 and not completed until 1978. It is a colossal
building with stunning vistas, much enhanced by the Rose Sandstone used, diffusing light, colour and shadow throughout
from its matchless elevated position overlooking the city.
Rose Sandstone for the Anglican Cathedral, Liverpool |
There are many other hotspots of cherished stone – Cornwall
has its Granite (which I find rather
too dark), Wales rejoices in Slate,
while unpromising but ubiquitous Flint can
look very well if dressed and combined with another stone as in the exterior of
the Suffolk churches of Lavenham and Long Melford.
But I want now to move on to my, and everyone’s, favourite
English stone, the mellow Oolitic
Limestone associated with Lincolnshire, Oxfordshire, the Cotswolds and
Bath.
In years past, before the motorway network was developed, we
used to drive from Scotland to London by the AI and a memorable stop-over was
Stamford, Lincolnshire. A splendid historic town, with surviving 17th
and 18th century buildings Stamford’s local stone is much in
evidence here as it is at Lincoln Cathedral further North.
Limestone delights in Stamford, |
For 7 years I lived in the Gloucestershire Cotswolds in
semi-retirement, surrounded by some of the loveliest villages in England. The
gentle Cotswold escarpment contains unspoiled settlements and the stone is so
distinctive.
Descending West you soon get to the astonishing city of Bath
with its renowned stone and glorious architecture. However to my mind Cotswold
stone is best displayed at the University of Oxford where I misspent 3 highly
agreeable years in the 1960s.
Brasenose College and vistas from Radcliffe Square, Oxford |
How fortunate we British are to live in a beautiful country
among unrivalled townscapes, hewn from stone of the highest quality!
SMD, 19.03.16, Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2016
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