Sunday, October 21, 2012

YORK MINSTER AND CHOCOLATE SWEETS: The Essence of England (3)



                        
  
[This is the third of a series of articles giving a brief description of each of the 26 ancient Anglican cathedrals coupled with a sketch of a person, activity or institution connected to the area]


The City of York is one of the great tourist highlights of England. Impressive city walls, a medieval quarter including The Shambles with numerous ancient churches to delight the eye, but above all the renowned York Minster constituting a peerless glory of Gothic architecture.

York Minster

The Minster (the name given in England to many large churches) is the second largest Gothic building in Northern Europe after Cologne. The Minster we now see is the third building on the site and was built between 1220 and 1472. It is truly massive, reminiscent of Amiens, with an enormously wide central nave: the central vault is of painted wood while the aisles are vaulted in stone.

The cleared Nave at York Minster

The Minster has been unlucky in its history with the financial blow of the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1535, a damaging siege in the Civil War in 1644, a crumbling building fabric and numerous fires – a recent one in 1984 caused by a lightning strike, characterised by Anglican Evangelicals as God’s judgement on the High Church practices of the Minster! But many treasures have survived; the remarkable East window from the early 15th century is the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world: the sumptuous early Decorated Gothic Chapter House has no central support but rests on its walls; all in all, a lovely place.

York Minster, The Chapter House
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The city of York prospered in earlier times from the trade in wool, with raw wool being exported to the weavers in Northern Europe. In the 19th century it became famous in Britain as a centre of the confectionery trade, in particular renowned for its chocolate. The beginnings were very modest. Joseph Rowntree senior, a leading Quaker and later mayor of York, ran a small-time grocer’s shop in Pavement, central York. In the 1840’s Rowntree had apprenticed to him two young Quakers, George Cadbury and Lewis Fry, members of two other pioneering chocolate families – Fry’s, based in Bristol, invented the first chocolate bar in 1847 while Cadbury’s, based in Birmingham, became famous for their Dairy Milk chocolate.

The Quakers were respected as shop-keepers as they upheld ethical standards. Before 1860 trading regulations, food was often sold in short measure or was adulterated with various filling agents. Quakers had suffered for their beliefs and were considered more than usually honest, so people preferred to patronise their shops. Quakers were attracted to the cocoa and chocolate business because it was not involved in alcohol which they deplored. Anyhow Joseph Rowntree senior’s two sons Isaac and Joseph junior branched out into the manufacture of chocolate. Joseph junior came to be the dominant figure in the business from 1869 and later employed 4,000 people in his York factories. Using the developing network of the railways – York being an important railway hub – Rowntree products became well-known in the North of
England and later nationally. In the fullness of time, delicious Rowntree brands like Kit-Kat, Aero, Smarties and Yorkie became recognised and cherished everywhere. A merger with Halifax-based Mackintosh in 1969 brought the Quality Street, Rolo and Toffee Crisp brands into the company. Mackintosh had effectively invented the “toffee” by mixing the traditional English butterscotch with American caramel – giving pleasure to young and old but nightmares to dentists.

The Rowntrees were not just businessmen but were also generous and thoughtful philanthropists. Joseph Rowntree set up several charitable trusts in 1904 to assist the poor and the elderly. He cared for his workforce and introduced many welfare benefits for his staff. He was a Liberal supporter and with his son Seebohm was a friend of Lloyd George and influenced Liberal social policies. Seebohm’s authoritative reports on poverty in York introduced the concept of the “poverty line”.

Joseph Rowntree


Seebohm Rowntree













The other great chocolatier of York was Joseph Terry, first established in 1828 and manufacturer of various confectionery including Terry’s Chocolate Orange and All Gold – that splendid box of chocolates you groped about in the theatre to sample but in the darkness picked up the nut cracknel when you wanted the strawberry cream!

The third York confectioner was Cravens, less well-known but long established. It ceased to trade in the 1960s and when its York factory was finally demolished, a Viking settlement, packed full of artefacts was found beneath it. After extensive excavations the Jorvik Viking Centre was opened in 1984, giving visitors an exciting interactive time-warp experience, returning to Viking York at 5.30pm on 25 October AD 975!

Sad to relate, the great era of Quaker chocolate-makers is long gone. Kit-Kat is still made in York but in 1988 the company was bought by the Swiss Nestlé. Fry’s (Chocolate Cream, Turkish Delight) had been acquired in 1919 by Cadburys (Dairy Milk, Crunchie, Cadburys Flake etc) until Cadburys itself fell to Kraft Foods in 2010 and is now owned by Mondelez International. Kraft had already devoured Terry’s in 1993, after it had been bought by United Biscuits and then Suchard.

It is not sensible to get too aerated about the global trade in brands and maybe some will return to British food giants. York will nevertheless always miss the employment opportunities chocolate brought, the local philanthropy of the upright owners and the glamour of their iconic brands.

Kit-Kat, made in York but not by Rowntrees

                      


SMD
21.10.12


Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2012

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