Tuesday, November 20, 2012

RIPON CATHEDRAL AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY: The Essence of England (17)




[This is the seventeenth of a series of articles giving a brief description of each of the 26 ancient Anglican cathedrals coupled with a sketch of a person, activity or
institution connected to the area]

Ripon Cathedral in the North Yorkshire Dales is an ancient place. A Saxon church was built by St Wilfrid, a famously argumentative priest who successfully championed the Roman rites over those of the Celtic Church at the Synod of Whitby in 664. His Saxon Crypt of 672 survives below the cathedral.

Ripon Cathedral
 The cathedral we now see was started in the 12th century by Bishop Roger de Pont L’Eveque. The transepts are in the transitional Norman style while the West Front is Early English. The rather squat West towers were designed to carry wooden spires but the originals were never replaced. After the central tower collapsed in 1450, the Nave and new tower were rebuilt in the Perpendicular style in the 15th and 16th centuries.

The nave at Ripon
 The choir stalls include some fine misericords, one of which is said to have inspired Lewis Carroll to write his Alice in Wonderland. The cathedral is a pleasing surprise in a rather remote location.
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About three miles from Ripon stands the extensive ruins of Fountains Abbey, a Cistercian abbey which flourished from 1132 until its Dissolution in 1539. The ruins are very impressive and evocative; much remains of the extensive monks’ cells and church buildings, workshops, fishponds and grain stores. The monks submitted to the rule of St Bernard of Clairvaux and its mother church was Citeaux in Burgundy, then at its peak.

Fountains Abbey
Fountains Abbey, preceded in Yorkshire by Rievaulx, is an example of those centres of monastic life and religious commitment in Britain and throughout Christendom which are so alien to the modern mind. .

The title of the Father of Monasticism is conferred inaccurately on St Anthony the Great (251-356), long preceeded by many hermits dwelling in Christian Egypt. St Anthony won fame by living a solitary life of piety and prayer in the Libyan Desert, with legends of his resistance to Temptation inspiring many later artists.

St Anthony fights off the demons
 Early manifestations of the monastic spirit were mainly of the reclusive sort: persons who sought to isolate themselves from the world and devote themselves to religious practices and contemplation. This life-style was often combined with spectacular examples of mortification of the flesh. One such was Simeon Stylites (390-459) who was shunned by some for his violent fasting and masochistic self-torments. For the last 37 years of his life he lived on the top of a narrow 15 metre-high pillar near Aleppo in Syria. Large crowds came to revere him and to seek his arbitration on disputes. His verdicts were surprisingly sensible and free from fanaticism.



Simeon Stylites
 The other type of monasticism was the living together of like-minded monks in a community (“cenobitic” monasticism). One of the earliest was the Orthodox St Catherine’s in Sinai, Egypt, which housed unique manuscripts and escaped the iconoclastic destruction of the 8th and 9th centuries. It still functions as a monastery.

St Catherine's, Sinai
 In the West, these monasteries soon felt the need for a governing code and over the years the Rule of Benedict, of Basil or of Bernard were enunciated. All monks accepted the life of poverty, chastity and obedience and their monasteries received gifts from kings and the faithful allowing them to become powerful institutions. Many monks did indeed live an exemplary life but also quite often discipline was lax or broke down to the scandal of the poor peasantry. Good works, the distribution of alms and the tending of the sick and the old added to their popularity. We get a glimpse of this world in Umberto Eco’s 1980 mystery The Name of the Rose and in Helen Waddell’s notable 1933 historical novel Peter Abelard. Women played a full part in the religious life and the mystical writings of 14th century anchoress Julian of Norwich are still much admired.

In 1534 after a long dispute over the annulment of his marriage to Catherine of Aragon, Henry VIII declared himself Head of the English Church and broke with the Pope. By this time the monasteries held a quarter of England’s landed wealth and received half of all ecclesiastical revenues. It was too tempting a target for cash-strapped Henry and under Thomas Cromwell he dissolved the monasteries, seized their land and pensioned off their clergy. Most monasteries surrendered under pressure. Resistance like Yorkshire’s Pilgrimage of Grace was brutally suppressed.

The English monasteries were no more. In Victorian times Anglican religious houses were revived under the influence of the Oxford Movement. Some thrived but in our times they are in decline as novices are hard to find. In the Catholic world monasteries have flourished for much longer, though they too in due course lost much of their wealth and have recruitment problems. Orthodox monasticism is also stumbling although impregnable Meteora still hosts its monks and Mount Athos has had an injection of vocations from the Balkan and Russian faithful.

A Monastery at Meteora, Greece
 A walk around the green precincts of Fountains Abbey conjures up many ghosts: images of dedication and sacrifice; of a life almost inexplicable amidst the worldly and unspiritual obsessions of 21st century England.


SMD
20.11.12

Text copyright © Sidney Donald 2012



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