Tuesday, November 5, 2013

THE PAINTED COURT-YARD




Pleasure for an hour, a bottle of Wine: Pleasure for one year, a Marriage: but Pleasure for a lifetime, a Garden. (Chinese Proverb)                

          
Our charming little summer-house in Karlovasi, on the Greek Aegean island of Samos, sits on a corner and on one side there is a court-yard giving access to five neighbouring houses, one of which we acquired separately. The court-yard used to be a scruffy, dusty, concrete space of no merit and locals aggressively parked their cars there, although it was clearly private land. Worse, an absentee inheritor of one of the houses claimed, probably advised by his uncle, an elderly Samiot lawyer of controversial reputation, in a bizarre acceptance of his legacy, that the greater part of the Court-yard was his, denying us any rights – his claim was dismissed by the court as being wholly without merit, but it still cost us and another freeholder two years anxiety and about £2,000 in legal fees to contest the claim (there is sadly no land registry proving title in Greece). In time, we erected a barrier to keep out all cars and it is now a peaceful place giving undisturbed access to all the tenants and owners.


The happy part of this story is that the Court-yard has been changed and beautified beyond recognition. The concrete wasteland now has a painted floor and is surrounded by a splendid array of potted Mediterranean flowers and herbs. The neighbourhood has been much enhanced and the locals, including taxi drivers, refer to it as the Zographisti Avli (The Painted Court-yard). 

Theofilaktos, Flower-lover and Artist

The hero of this story is a tenant of a flat in the Court-yard, Theofilaktos Kostopoulos, a 31-year-old former theatrical  electrician, jobbing builder and man of all talents who lives there with his lovely girl-friend Christina. Both are from the town of Veria in Macedonia and have lived in Samos for about 3 years. Theofilaktos was upset by being constantly harassed by locals parking literally on his door-step. He joined my wife Betty and me in mounting resistance and with Theo’s stalwart landlord George, we appointed a highly competent Athens lady solicitor to plead our case; we won comprehensively. The Court-yard is now officially reserved for pedestrian owners and tenants.


Theofilaktos loves flowers and plants, an interest probably picked up from his maternal grandmother, a Pontic Greek, a refugee from the ancient Greek community of Pontus in Northern Turkey on the Black Sea, now sadly eradicated. His home province of Macedonia is also fertile and splendid flora are abundant. With finances difficult, he has not had much chance to indulge his enthusiasm apart from planting and tending the window boxes in our house. Yet he is expert at propagating plants from cuttings and Betty and I helped him out to buy new earth and a variety of plants. With enormous energy Theofilaktos acquired mainly feta cheese or olive tins from local shops, carefully painted them in different colours and planted them out. When I last counted there were 35 such containers, but he adds to them constantly and when we return next year there will be quite a few more. He has also created generous plant-troughs from discarded water-pipes, supported on his self-made wooden trestles.

A Corner of the Painted Court-yard

All Greeks love herbs and Theofilaktos can point to Parsley, Rosemary, Oregano, Lemon Verbena (Louisa), Sage, Thyme, Marjoram, Basil, several kinds of Mint, Cuphea and Stevia: the aromas from many of them are heady and voluptuous – he makes some memorable teas and all our food is much enriched. To add colour, there are other plants spread about – Cacti like Yucca. Alloi and Immortal, purple Scottish Heather, red Azaleas and mauve Lavender, but more spectacularly, Cyclamen in blue and pink, orangey Crossandra, Hibiscus with huge red flowers, yellow Chrysanthemums, Jasmine and Honeysuckle to creep and clamber delicately, not to mention flourishing blue Forget-me-nots outside and temperamental Gardenias inside our house, all tended lovingly by Theofilaktos and Betty. Our collection of potted flora is perhaps not strictly a traditional garden, but it is a cherished garden to us, thriving in the balmy Greek climate, and that is what matters.


The Painted Court-yard is another triumph, with Theofilaktos doing the hard graft, with his eye for colour and rock steady painter’s hand, while Betty, one-time prize graduate of an art college, helped in the design and proportions. 

The painted Court-yard looking to the road





It is an example of folk-art, rather than anything loftier, much appreciated by local friends and neighbours and by their children. A striking Evil Eye wards off hostile spirits, arched by a Rainbow and joined by a peaceful Laurel Wreath. The Sun peeks out behind some Clouds already enlivened by a colourfully be-ribboned Kite. A magnificent Sun Flower dominates the centre. All the old concrete is painted over and varnished: it is only half finished. Next year Seas, Mountains and Butterflies will make an appearance. Meanwhile what a pleasure it is to welcome friends and neighbours to our regular BBQs of chicken and pork in the Painted Court-yard, washed down by liberal quantities of wine and beer in the animated Greek ambiance. A candle-lit Halloween supper last week, with pumpkin lanterns was particularly attractive.


It is good to report that something life-enhancing can be created out of nothing.


SMD
5.11.13
Copyright ©Sidney Donald 2013

No comments:

Post a Comment