FLEXIBLE GREECE

In July 2016 the SYRIZA (i.e. loony leftist) prime minister of Greece, Alexis Tsipras called a hasty referendum to seek the approval of the people for a harsh EU/IMF bail-out package (the third one!). Rejection was particularly advocated by Yannis Varoufakis, the brilliant but erratic Finance Minister, and indeed the vote easily rejected the bail-out package.  However, after a few days contemplation, Tsipras decided to take the safer option and to knuckle under to the EU terms. Varoufakis lost office and heavily indebted Greece has feebly limped along. The bail-out notionally expired a day or two ago and Tsipras has since won an election and retained the premiership. These political gymnastics would have earned in the UK Churchill’s famous gibe at Prime Minister Ramsay Macdonald “I never thought I would live to see the day that The Boneless Wonder was standing at the Treasury Bench!” But in Greece, a firm back-bone is a luxury it is unable to afford and Tsipras is forgiven.

Boneless if pragmatic Tsipras and erratic but smart Varoufakis

Since early June I have been mainly in Athens but have just returned from 10 days in our cherished Aegean island of Samos. We travelled by car ferry, not recommended in the crowded high season culminating in the 15 August Feast of the Assumption. The ferries are large and comfortable but the time spent waiting about to embark and disembark and the stifling car-decks themselves are a trial for an oldie like me. On the way back, on the short Mykonos to Syros leg, we were treated to an old-fashioned piece of salesmanship. A burly islander carrying a huge wicker basket full of Syros delicacies invaded the seating area and we bought some Halvadopitas.

Halvadopitas from Syros

Halvadopitas are waffle-like pies stuffed with creamy nougat and impregnated with sugar and honey. They are a cheap sweetmeat originating in Syros – not part of your calorie-controlled diet! Syros itself is an oddity. Once colonised by the Venetians and the French, she fell to the Ottomans in the 16^th century. For ages until the mid-19^th century, her population was entirely Catholic but various convulsions brought an influx of Orthodox refugees and the Orthodox now make a slim majority. A flexible ecumenical spirit between these two branches of Christendom allows the Catholics to observe Easter according to the Orthodox calendar – quite a concession, in favour of unity. Syros was once the largest Greek port, eventually being overtaken by Piraeus and by Patras, but it still prospers.

Our visit to Samos was really as landlords looking after our leased house and student flats. We, or rather my dynamic wife, ran around with painters, plumbers, carpenters and canopy sellers. We had to buy a new student bed and were concerned that the local Greek mattress (advertised as de luxe) was too hard. Our new student tenant reassured us that the mattress would be just fine – he had lain on much worse! As the sun was beating down, we found time to swim most days and to eat well in some of our favourite places;

Our favourite beach-bar, Hippy's at the Potami, Karlovasi, Samos

Happily, this year Samos has not been plagued by Afghan, Syrian, Iraqi and Pakistani refugees arriving via Turkey. The agreement between Turkey and the EU restraining this traffic seems to be holding fast, despite Erdogan’s threats. Fortunately for Greece, Turkey has found another adversary in the US, and suddenly Turkey needs friends as her economy and currency totter. Whose ego is the larger between Erdogan and Trump is hard to judge, but the US is much the stronger. In these volatile times, a pinch of Hellenic flexibility is a wise addition to the bubbling mixture!

SMD

20.08.18

Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2018