CHATSWORTH and HADDON HALL; The Stately Homes of England (10)

[This is the last in a series of 10 articles describing some English Stately Homes and their connections]

The county of Derbyshire is richer than almost any other English county in great houses, containing the likes of Melbourne, Hardwick, Sudbury Hall and Kedleston, but I here describe two of my personal favourites, palatial and beautifully situated Chatsworth, seat of the Duke of Devonshire and medieval yet intimate Haddon Hall, a seat of the Duke of Rutland, both still in family ownership.

Chatsworth, the South Facade

Chatsworth, near Bakewell, Derbyshire, gloriously spread on the banks of the Derwent, was first prominent as a Tudor mansion built by Sir William Cavendish to please 4-times- married Bess of Hardwick. She lived there with her 4^th husband, George Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury but separated and returned to Hardwick when Shrewsbury became too close to his custodial house guest Mary, Queen of Scots. After Bess died in 1608 her eldest son sold Chatsworth to his brother the 1st Earl of Devonshire.

The later 4^th Earl was a leading Whig and left London during the reign of autocratic James II. During his self-imposed exile he decided to rebuild Chatsworth in the newly fashionable Baroque style using the well-regarded architect William Talman and later the brilliant but irascible Thomas Archer. The Tudor plan was kept for the central section, but the otherwise new house was built in 9 years between 1687 and 1696. The gardens were laid out including the spectacular Cascade, a vast fountain with 24 steps bringing water to the bottom of the Park. During this time the “Glorious Revolution” saw the Whigs triumph with the replacement of James II with William and Mary: the 4^th Earl was rewarded by becoming the 1^st Duke of Devonshire and 4 more Dukes lived there in great state.

The 6^th Duke (“The Bachelor Duke”) in the early 19^th century used the architect Jeffry Wyattville to modernise the house to Victorian standards and to build a new North wing. The 6^th Duke was a collector of art and also of books – he bought several whole libraries. In his day, This Duke was responsible for reorganising the magnificent gardens, giving Joseph Paxton of Crystal Palace fame his first chance as Head Gardener. The 8^th Duke was a prominent Commons politician before he succeeded to the Dukedom. He was known to the public by his courtesy title, the Marquis of Hartington and to his circle (if not to his face) as “Harty-Tarty”. As a young man he became enamoured with the courtesan “Skittles” Walters but later was a solemn bearded apostle of Mr Gladstone, supporting his programme of reform. He split from him in 1886 on the issue of Ireland, becoming the leader of the Liberal Unionists, opposed to Home Rule. Hartington was said to have declined the premiership three times.

The Hall at Chatsworth

 

The Library at Chatsworth

                  

The 10^th Duke was the brother of Lady Dorothy Cavendish who married erstwhile Prime Minister Harold MacMillan. She raised eyebrows in high society by having a long-term affair with rumbustious but disreputable bi-sexual politician Sir Robert Boothby. The 10^th Duke’s eldest son Billy married Kathleen Kennedy, sister of JFK, in 1944 but he was killed in action in Belgium 4 months later and she died in a plane crash in 1948. Billy’s brother Andrew succeeded as the 11^th Duke in 1950 after his father died while being treated by suspected serial killer Dr John Bodkin Adams.

 Andrew had married Deborah Mitford, youngest of the celebrated and unconventional Mitford sisters, Nancy, Diana, Unity, Pamela and Jessica. Deborah, now the 93-year old Dowager Duchess, was chatelaine for many years and did much to save Chatsworth which was in heavy debt in 1950. She enjoyed the friendship of Evelyn Waugh and Patrick Leigh Fermor, but more than a thousand acres, Rembrandts, Van Dycks and Raphaels had to be sold, and Hardwick transferred to the National Trust to appease the taxman. Duke Andrew was a minister in MacMillan’s government (“sheer nepotism” the Opposition complained) but performed adequately. He sadly succumbed to drink in 2004. The 12^th Duke, Stoker Cavendish, scrapes by nicely on the £500m family fortune.

The Cascade at Chatsworth

There is a colourful history but the Devonshires have spent millions on preserving their great house, which we can gratefully acknowledge.

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Haddon Hall, south of Bakewell, Derbyshire is on a far more modest scale than Chatsworth, but it is a wonderfully well preserved example of a medieval and Tudor house. Built high on a hill, you cross a bridge over the River Wye, climb up a path and are transported into a world many centuries old. It is one of the glories of England.

Haddon Hall by the Wye

The site is ancient and succeeding generations of the Vernon and Manners families have owned the Hall since the early 13^th century.  The Chapel, with its original altar screen and wall paintings and the Banqueting Hall have not much changed since medieval times and the Long Gallery of 1608 was the last major alteration. The Manners became Dukes of Rutland in 1701 and moved to their other, more opulent, home Belvoir Castle. Haddon was neglected and remained in its historic condition. Its value was recognised by the 1920s and its roofs and fabric carefully restored.

The medieval Banqueting Hall and Minstrels' Gallery

The medieval Chapel at Haddon

As you progress through Haddon Hall, everything feels right – the furniture, the tapestries, the plaster and the carved woodwork inside: externally the courtyards, gardens and setting.  It has been lovingly preserved and it exhales the heady flavour of England’s history. Long may Haddon still stand!

The Long Gallery at Haddon Hall

          

SMD

6.12.13

Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2013