Tuesday, March 5, 2013

THE CITY OF LONDON CHURCHES (3): Gresham Street and Aldersgate




[This is the third of 10 articles briefly describing the 39 functioning historic Anglican churches in the City of London]

Gresham Street is to the West of Moorgate and it is a pivotal area for banks, huge law practices and the civic dignity of the City. A modern square opens out and you admire the historic Guildhall, ceremonial headquarters of the City and site of grand dinner functions including the annual speeches on the economy by the Prime Minister and the Chancellor of the Exchequer. In one corner of the square stands St Lawrence Jewry, the church of the City Corporation, suitably majestic and stately.

St Lawrence Jewry, opposite Guildhall

St Lawrence Jewry interior

St Lawrence was lavishly restored by Cecil Brown after the destruction of Wren’s 1687 church in the Blitz. It has a worldly air with its white and gold decoration, Corinthian columns, fine plaster work and elaborate sword-rests. A recent Vicar of right-wing views organised lunchtime talks which I attended; Ralph Harris, Mrs Thatcher’s economic guru: Norris McWhirter, tireless libertarian campaigner whose twin brother Ross was murdered by the IRA: Viscount de Lisle VC, high Tory and the last British Governor-General of Australia. All this was much to my taste.

Yet St Lawrence Jewry obviously did religion too. I will never forget the Lenten sermon preached by The Blessed Anthony, leader of the Russian Orthodox in London, looking like Eisenstein’s Ivan the Terrible, and speaking of God’s judgement with matchless eloquence while imbuing his audience with the urgency of repentance. Easter certainly came as a relief that year!
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A short walk from St Lawrence takes you to a curiosity – the site of St Mary Aldermanbury, gutted in the Blitz. As a memorial to Winston Churchill the remaining stones were transported to Fulton, Missouri, where Churchill had given his famous “Iron Curtain” speech and the church was faithfully reconstructed. It looks very fine in its new home. All that remains in London are some foundations and a generous memorial to locals Hemmings and Condell, compilers of Shakespeare’s First Folio.

St Mary Aldermanbury at Fulton, Missouri
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Towards the end of Gresham Street St Anne and St Agnes is prettily set back in a little garden. Red-brick and homely, by Wren 1677, the church remains in Anglican ownership but has for many years been let to the Lutheran congregations in London, with regular services in English, Swahili and Latvian.

St Anne and St Agnes, Gresham Street
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Strolling up narrow Foster Lane off Gresham Street takes you to the agreeable white Portland stone church of St Vedast Foster Lane. Although the church was redesigned after the Fire by Wren and completed in 1700, its most remarkable aspect is its mathematically imposing steeple by the unmistakable hand of Nicholas Hawksmoor, Wren’s one-time pupil.

St Vedast Foster Lane, Church and Steeple

Internally the church has been well restored by Stephen Dykes-Bower after being gutted in the Blitz. The seating is collegiate, facing each other: there is a flat ceiling with attractive plaster wreaths and flowers. Modern stained glass (by Brian Thomas) is, unusually, critically praised. There are excellent furnishings acquired from other demolished churches.

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Gresham Street ends at St Martin le Grand once home of the first general Post Office. This street becomes Aldersgate Street and we soon see the modestly boxy St Botolph Aldersgate built in 1788 by Nathaniel Wright and internally arranged by Nathaniel Evans. St Botolph was a 7th century East Anglian saint, patron of wayfarers and by extension of town gates. Three extant churches in the City dedicated to St Botolph are connected to old City gates - Aldgate, Bishopsgate and Aldersgate.

The externals of St Botolph are unremarkable although there is a pretty tower and bell-turret. Internally there is a splendid 18th century barrel-vaulted roof, lavishly plastered and decorated: airy galleries: Corinthian columns, gilded and marbled: fine wooden panelling throughout. As an example of the Anglican Church’s genial ecumenism, St Botolph is currently used every Sunday by the Free Church of Scotland.

  
St Botolph Aldersgate interior

St Botolph’s churchyard is now known as Postman’s Park, a welcome stretch of green amid the City’s bustle. It was later extended and in 1900 planned by the Victorian painter GF Watts as a Memorial to Heroic Self-Sacrifice. It was neglected after Watt’s death but there are still a number of plaques commemorating the otherwise unsung heroes who died saving others in house fires, accidents and other catastrophes. One day the saviours of the City from the Economic Crisis may even get a memorial!


SMD
5.03.13

Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2013

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