[This is the fourth of 10 articles briefly describing the 39
functioning historic Anglican churches in the City of London]
Old London Bridge
forded a much wider Thames than we now see. In
Victorian times; embankments were raised and a new bridge was erected to the
detriment of St Magnus the Martyr,
whose tower acted as a portico to the church and stood over the footway of the
old bridge. But the fine white Portland stone church, by Wren 1687, stands
proudly with its splendid tower while its interior is one of the finest in the
City. T.S Eliot’s lines still evoke its grandeur.
 |
| St Magnus the Martyr |
“Where Fishmen lounge
at noon: where the walls
Of Magnus Martyr hold
Inexplicable
splendour of Ionian white and gold.”
The Fishmen have gone since Billingsgate market closed but a
recent renovation gives us plenty Ionian white and gold.
 |
| St Magnus the Martyr interior |
The medieval, Tudor and Stuart church had a distinguished
history. Dedicated to a 12th century Orkney king and martyr, St
Magnus was a prominent church, a convenient stopping place for pilgrims to
Canterbury and the scene of many religious controversies over the years. Myles
Coverdale, the first translator of the complete Bible into English printed in
1535, was Rector 1564-6. Sadly the church was very near to Pudding Lane, the seat of the Great Fire
of 1666 and was one of the first churches to be consumed.
The present church is a standard-bearer of the
Anglo-Catholic wing of the Anglicans and is much involved with the Fishmongers
and Plumbers Livery Companies.
------------------------------------
Not far away in narrow Lovat Lane stands St Mary-at-Hill at one time one of the most attractive City
churches. Betjeman rated it very highly and I recall its beautiful woodwork,
especially a pulpit and sounding board with a long wooden staircase with a
carved balustrade. There were box-pews, communion rails, sword rests and floral
wall decorations. Much of the wood-carving was Victorian by the masterly Gibbs
Rogers.
Alas, a fire in 1988 seriously damaged the church, closing
it for several years. Although the ceiling, plaster and the organ case were
repaired, the surviving woodwork and all the furnishings were put in store and
have not re-appeared. Inertia and bureaucracy has paralysed restoration and a
virtue is made of the empty space left behind, used for rehearsals, meetings or
as a lunchtime shelter on a cold day. When I was there recently, primary
children were learning about the nearby Monument (311 narrow steps, not for the
lame and the halt!). Restore St Mary-at-Hill soon, please!
 |
| A spartan St Mary-at-Hill |
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A few steps from Lovat
Lane over Eastcheap take you to the handsome Wren church of St Margaret Pattens
in Portland stone with its 1684 Wren-Gothic spiky lead spire. The name
“Pattens” supposedly derives from the wooden clogs (pattens) made nearby or
left at the church door by women parishioners on entering the church. St Margaret’s position parallel to busy Eastcheap and
surrounded by huge office blocs makes it easily overlooked and undervalued.
 |
| St Margaret Pattens interior |
It has an airy interior with many clear glass clerestory
windows. There is a gallery to the West, with much dark wooden wainscotting and
a charming pulpit contrasting with the painted white and gold. The church has a
comfortable late 17th and 18th century atmosphere which
is most appealing.
--------------------------------------
A short walk to Leadenhall
Street to the North takes us to the unusual and
splendid Caroline church
of St
Katherine Cree. The church was far enough east
to miss the Great Fire and it escaped the Blitz too.
 |
| St Katherine Cree, Leadenhall Street |
The original church was built on
the medieval site of Christ Church Priory (“Cree” is a corruption of “Christ Church”).
It became unsafe and was rebuilt in 1631 with only the Tudor (1508) tower
surviving. The church displays the transition between Tudor and Classic styles
with classic arcades with Corinthian columns supporting a Gothic clerestory
with very characteristic plaster rib vaults.
 |
| St Katherine Cree interior |
At the East end there is an attractive St Katherine wheel
rose window, the glass said to be original.
To the right of the altar is a side chapel devoted to
William Laud, dominated by his portrait. Archbishop William Laud, patron of the church,
was shamefully executed in 1645 during the Civil War by the Puritans who
execrated his High
Church practices. The
chapel is supported by the Society of Charles King and Martyr, surely rather a
lost cause these days.
In the same side chapel is the elaborate tomb of Nicholas
Throckmorton, who died in 1570 after a notable career as Queen Elizabeth’s envoy,
perilously trying to keep the peace with the Spanish and Mary, Queen of Scots.
The rich variety and interest of the City Churches is always
remarkable.
SMD
9.03.13
Text Copyright © Sidney Donald 2013
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